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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.